Nepal is known as land of Himalayas world over. There are 1,310 peaks above 6000 meters of which 238 are already opened for climbing. Likewise, out of fourteen 8000 meters above peaks eight of them, including the highest peak in the world, Mount Everest lie in Nepal. Other seven are namely Kanchenjunga, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Dhaulagiri, Manaslu and Annapurna.

Mt. Everest
Mount Everest is the highest mountain in the world measuring 8,848m (29,028 feet) in height. It was first climbed on May 29, 1953 by a New Zealander Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay of Nepal. Mount Everest is also known by the Tibetan name Chomolangma (goddess mother of the snows), and by the Nepali name Sagarmatha (Mother of the Universe).
Everest had been attempted many times before the important expeditions being that of 1922, 1923 and 1924.The body of George H.L. Mallory who died in an earlier attempt (1924), was discovered on the mountain in 1999. More than 600 climbers from 20 countries have climbed the summit by various routes from both north and south. Climbers' ages have ranged from nineteen years to sixty. Climbing on Everest is very strictly regulated by both the Nepalese and Chinese governments. Climbing Everest and Treks to Everest Base Camp are becoming increasingly popular on both the north and south sides of the mountain. On the north side, a Buddhist monastery is one of two whose locations were selected specifically to allow religious contemplation of the great peak. The other side is the Thyangboche Monastery in Nepal. The once active Rongbuk monastery in Tibet has required much rejuvenation from the destruction it experienced following China's

trekking in everest region

Located in the eastern half of Nepal, the Everest region offers a wide range of trekking experiences. From the well-developed trail to Everest base camp to treks in remote semi-wilderness areas, there is a choice to suit all-corners.
The most frequented part of the region is located in Solukhumbu district, the home of the legendary Sherpas. The northern part of the district (Khumbu) is encompassed in the Everest National Park , which was established to protect the fragile environment of the alpine region. To the east of the Everest National Park is the Makalu-Barun National Park , a remote and wild stretch of mountain peaks and deep densely forested valleys. To the west is the Rolwaling valley, a well protected microcosm of cultures and ecology. The southern part of the district, Solu is much less frequented by tourist and be a very rewarding destination in its own right.
Beside Mount Everest there are other 8,000 meter peaks in the region. Lhotse , Cho Oyu and Makalu and in addition numerous other peaks lesser altitude but no less stunning. Add to this glacial lakes rhododendron forest, native flora and fauna, traditional villages and ancient Buddhist monasteries, all go to make this region a spectacular destination.
Permits and Fees
No special trekking permits are required to visit this area provided that the trekker's do not climb any of the peaks. An entry fee is charged for access to Everest National Park . This is payable at the national park desk in Thamel. For treks to the east of main Everest trail an addition permit is required to enter Makalu-Barun National Park obtainable from the same location.
Getting There
Access to the Everest region can only be made by air or on foot. By road, the only practical road ahead at this time is Jiri, a seven to ten hour bus ride from Kathmandu. A new road is under construction to Salleri, the district headquarters, but this will probably be complete for another five years at least. It is also possible to trek to the Everest region via the Arun valley where roads head is at Hille, a twenty ride from the capital. These times are all by local bus as there is no tourist bus service available at this time. Private cars and taxis could be used and would reduce the traveling time considerably but obviously at extra cost. Buses to Jiri currently leave from the old bus park in central Kathmandu.
By air there are three options. The most convenient for Everest treks is Lukla, which is serviced by many daily flights from Kathmandu. Three days walk to south, near the district headquarters, is Phaplu air strip, which is service by daily flights. This is useful for treks in southern parts of the region or for Everest trekkers who want to gain extra acclimatization and see some of less developed part of the district.
The last choice is the small air strip at Syangboche, which is located above Namche Bazar. While this is an option, its altitude (3760 meters) makes it an impractical and unwise choice as an arrival destination for acclimatization reasons.
People and Culture
The main ethnic group that visitors will encounter in the Everest region is the Sherpas . This is their heartland and their influence is to be seen everywhere from their traditional dress to their distinctive houses and village monasteries. There are also minorities of various other groups, notably Rai/Limbu and Tamang in the lower hills and the ubiquitous Bhramin and Chhetri farmers of the valleys.
Flora and Fauna
The flora and fauna to be seen are quiet diverse since the region ranges in altitude from less than 2000 meters above sea level at Jiri to the high peaks of the Himalaya at over 8000 meters. Up to 4000 meters you will find dense stands of forest including pine, oak and the spectacular flowering rhododendrons . The latter are one reason to make a trip in Nepal in the spring when the hills between 2000 and 3500 meters are a riot of colors.
The crop under cultivation will depend on the season that you visit but expect to see wheat, barley, corn and potatoes at some stage. Domesticated animals will range from cattle, buffalo, goats and pigs to the all-purpose beast of mountains-the yak
There is a good chance of seeing wildlife, mostly birds including the national bird of Nepal-the Impeyan Pheasant, or danfe, which is quite common around Namche Bazar. Other notable birds will include the ravens and crows of the middle hills and the coughs which soar to seemingly impossible heights in the mountains. Also in the mountain look for flocks of snow pigeons wheeling around the hillsides.
Land animals can be most elusive but look out mountain goats (most commonly the Himalayan tahr) and, if you are lucky, musk deer or barking deer in the forest.
How and When
How to trek in Everest region depend entirely on the route that you choose. On the main trail to Everest base camp or the route to Gokyo valley then teahouse trekking is perfectly possible. The trail in from Jiri is also endowed with many continently located teahouses although generally not of such a high standard as those to the north. Other trekking routes will almost certainly require the use of camping and organization of trekking staff and equipment. See the following individual route description for detail.
When to Visit?
The peak season of October/November and March/May are obviously the most popular. At these times the weather is mild and generally dry, making the walking conditions good. The spring season is good for wild flowers, particularly the rhododendrons, while the autumn season generally gives the best mountain views, as the air at this time is crystal clear.
Winter is possible but the chances of snow are higher and passes may be closed, particularly during late winter. Also during this time many of the teahouses will close. The summer/monsoon period is generally unsuitable for trekking period, as the trails are slippery, leeches abundant and the mountain views are unpredictable. It can be rewarding time, however, if you are prepared to tolerate these drawbacks, as the wild flowers are at their best at this time and there are fewer tourists on the trails making interaction with the locals easier.
Hiring Staffs
It is possible to hire guides, porters or yaks at Lukla but for safety a guide from Kathmandu is preferable. The extra cost of his airfare will outweigh the possibility of not finding a suitable guide at Lukla, especially during the peak seasons. Porters are always available at Lukla. Pure yaks will not be found at Lukla, as it is too low for them to operate, but yak crossbreeds will be found there. For a small group only carrying personal gear, porters are preferable. The cost will depend on the seasonal demand for their services.
If your trek starts at Jiri then you will only find porters available there. Guides should definitely brought from Kathmandu.
Looking after the environment
Much has been said about the deteriorating environment of the Himalaya. Over that past few years, due to effort by many overseas expeditions and organizations such as the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee and Nepal Mountaineering Association, education programmes and clean-up campaigns have, to a large extent, solved many of the problems.
Having said that, the environment of the high Himalaya is a very fragile eco-system that is easily put out of balance. The locals lived for generations in relative harmony with their surroundings but the recent influx of tourist has put pressure on the indigenous populations to supply more and more services in the name of tourism development. While the Everest National Park is somewhat protective from the worst ravages the same cannot be said about the area immediately to the south. Here, uncontrolled timber collection for fuel and building has led to a marked loss of timber cover. Certain initiatives within the National Park area, such as the banning of glass beer and soft drink bottles, had resulted in a reduction of the amount of non-biodegradable rubbish being left behind. Much more can be done, however, particularly by the trekkers themselves. The KEEP code of trekking conduct is a perfect example.


Everest base Camp
One of the classic treks in Nepal, Everest base camp is most commonly visited as a two week trek starting and finishing at Lukla, the airport just to the south of Everest National park.
During the trekking seasons there are numerous daily flights into and out of Lukla, weather permitting. The flight from Kathmandu, which takes around forty-five minutes, passes over the fertile middle hills, with their scattered villages and terraced fields, with an amazing panorama of the high Himalaya as a backdrop. Before long the mountains close in and you are sweeping down to land at the gateway to Everest-Lukla. Situated high above the banks of the Dudh Koshi river, which carries the melt water from Everest, Lukla provides a range of services, including accommodation but most trekkers will choose to start trekking as soon as they arrive and use Lukla as a final destination on their return.
From Lukla trekker must have a gentle, two days trek up the Dudh Koshi valley to reach Namche Bazar in order to avoid altitude problems. There are plenty of teahouses along the way for the first night stop, Phakding (three hours from Lukla) and Monzo (five hours from Lukla) are the most popular. Just beyond Monzo, trekkers enter the Everest National Park at the Jorsale check post. Here entry permits will be checked and the visitor's passport details recorded. The trail, which has been following the Dudh Koshi since Lukla, starts the ascent to Namche Bazar about one hour past Jorsale.
Namche Bazar, once a small village but since grown in size to accommodate the influx of trekkers, is the unofficial capital of the Sherpas. It was once an important trading centre on the route from Tibet to Nepal but has now been largely given over to catering for the needs of trekkers. There is a multitude of teahouse, equipment shops, curio sellers, restaurant and even cyber cafes that make just about anything the trekker could need, available, albeit at a higher price than in Kathmandu. For acclimatization reasons, trekkers must spend two nights in or around Namche, Which gives the opportunity to explore some of the less developed and more traditional villages in the area.
One of the nicest destination for the acclimation day is to walk to Thame, home of many famous mountaineering Sherpas, including Tenzing Norgay of Everest fame. Often Danfe (Impeyan Pheasant) and Himalaya Tahr can be seen along this trail. The round trip is quite a hard day's walk taking a minimum of eight hours. An option would be to stay the night at one of the teahouse at Thame and retrace your steps the next day. While at Thame, be sure to visit the Buddhist monastery, which is located on hillside about a thirty-minute walk above the village. The valley to the north of Thame leads to Tibet via the Nangpa la, the pass traditionally used by Sherpa and Tibetan traders. The valley to the west of Thame leads to the Trashi Labsta pass and the Rolwaling valley.
Easier option for passing the acclimatization day can be found by visiting the twin Sherpa villages of Khumjung and Khunde, which are about a two-hour walk above Namche. While in Khunde, visit the hospital, which was established and funded by sir Edmund Hillary's Himalayan trust. Khumjung monastery is interesting as being the store place of one of the alleged yeti scalp that is to be found in the region.
Moving on from Namche Bazar the trail follows the valley of the Imja khola with some spectacular views of the mountains including Thamserku, Kangtega and Ama Dablam and, dominating the skyline ahead, Everest and Lhotse. The most common night stop after Namche is at the top of a steep climb from the Imja khola, at Thyangboche. This is the site of one of the most significant Buddhist monasteries in Solukhumbu and a visit is well recommended. Tours of the monastery are conducted each afternoon. If the teahouse and campsites at Thyangboche are full, a common occurrence in the main season, then more lodging can be found a further thirty minutes along the trail at Deboche. The ramshackle nunnery, an extension of the Thyangboche monastery, at Deboche makes an interesting site trip.
Following the Imja khola from Thyangboche the trekking route climbs gradually through pangboche and emerges above the tree line. Eventually, after a long day's trek, you reach the next night's stop at either Pheriche or Dingboche. Here another rest/acclimatization day trip being to Chhukung, around three hours walk above Dingboche. The mountain panorama around Chhukung is nothing short of amazing with the massive south face of Lhotse rearing above it to the north and a ring of lesser peaks surrounding it.
From Dingboche or Pheriche it takes another six hours of trekking to reach the cluster of teahouse at Lobuche sited on the lateral moraine of the khumbu glacier. Above Lobuche it is another three hours walk to the last settlement on the trail at Gorak Shep. Here a few basic teahouses provide shelter for the night before undertaking the final leg of the trek up the glacier to Everest base camp. Above Gorak Shep rises the well-known landmark of Kala Pattar. A climb of two to three hours will reward the trekker with a marvelous vista. Barely eight kilometers to the east is the summit of Everest and just to the most beautiful mountains to be found anywhere.
The trek along the glacier to base camp can take up to five hours depending on the trail conditions. Care should be taken while traveling here, as route finding can be a problem and there are no facilities at base camp (expeditions are generally reluctant to entertain visiting trekkers) so it is important to make sure that you have food and drinks for the return trip. Descending from base camp, most trekkers will reach at least Lobuche, if not further, by nightfall.
The return trek to Lukla basically follows the upward route but rest days are obviously not necessary. The route can be varied, to make the return more interesting, by diverting through upper pangboche and returning to Namche via Phortse (looks for herds of tahr on the hillsides), Mong La and Khumjung. Pangboche, which has few teahouses and campsite, is an interesting place to spend a night. The monastery here is one of the oldest in Solukhumbu and also has yeti relics.
Khumjung would make an interesting alternative stopping place to Namche Bazar if trekkers wished to avoid the hustle and bustle of the bazaar.
If you haven't arranged for somebody to reconfirm your flight out of Lukla for you, be sure to reach there as early as possible on the day before departure in order to make sure that your seat doesn't disappear. Arriving in Lukla on the day of departure is inviting a lost seat.

Gokyo Valley
An alternative, or even better, an addition, to the Everest Base Camp trek is the trek up to the Gokyo valley. Gokyo is located in the valley immediately west of the Everest (Khumbu) valley and is far less developed and crowded than its better-known neighbor to the east. In fact, the Gokyo valley only has one traditional permanent settlement, the rest being summer pastures now catering to the passing trekkers.
If Gokyo is visited after trek to Everest base camp the extra distance only adds a another five days to the itinerary. If Gokyo is visited independently of Everest then care needs to be taken on the upward leg of the trek, as the altitude gain is much greater, leading to many unwary trekkers having problems with AMS. Both options will be described here.
If Gokyo is the ultimate destination rather than Everest then the Everest trail is followed as far as the teahouses at Kenjoma (where the trail from Khumjung joins the main trail). From here the Gokyo trail climbs up the hillside to a pass at Mong La before dropping steeply back down to the banks of the Dudh Koshi. The next two hours of trekking, through beech, rhododendron and oak forest, past waterfalls, which are often frozen, and ultimately through pine forests before breaking out above the tree line is one of the best sections of any trail in the area. Just above the trees line are the teahouses of dole, a convenient stopping place for the first night.
The following day must be very short if you are to avoid altitude problems. it only takes around for hours to reach Machherma but this is as far as most trekkers should travel that day. The valley that leads west above Manchherma is well worth an afternoon visit. it is here that the last reported sighting of a yeti was made. A yeti sighting unlikely but the valley is stunning none the less. The rocky bulk of Kyajo Ri, an unclimbed and impressive peak, dominates the head of the valley.
The final push up to Gokyo takes you past the teahouses at Pangkha and up the terminal moraine of the Ngozumpa glacier, the largest glacier in Nepal. Just above the moraine is the first of the glacial lakes for which Gokyo is renowned. If it isn't frozen, look for migrating ducks on the lake surface. The trail passes two more lakes to reach the teahouses of Gokyo about four to five hours after leaving Machherma.
The Gokyo valley is dominated at its head by the massive form of Cho Oyu, at 8153 meters the eight highest peaks on earth. Many options are available in the upper Gokyo valley. The most common destination is the rock hill above the third lake known as Gokyo Ri or Gokyo Kala Pattar. This hill, which takes at least two hours to climb, provides an even better panorama than the one seen from the more famous Kala Pattar at Gorak Shep (see Everest base camp trek description). To get the most out of a climb of Gokyo Ri, leave the teahouses at least two hours before dawn in order to have a sunrise view of the Himalaya. Other options include an additional day spent trekking further up the valley past the fourth and fifth lakes to Cho Oyu base camp. It must be remembered that there are no facilities beyond Gokyo and all trekkers must be self-sufficient.
There are two high passes leading out of the Gokyo valley. The most traveled in Cho la pass which connects with the khumbu valley near Lobuche and the other is the renjo la pass that joins the trail between Thame and Nangpa la. Both of these are serious undertakings that require some basic mountaineering skills and equipment depending on weather conditions. Teahouse trekkers have successfully crossed Cho la but the risk of sudden storm, which could trap unprepared trekkers, is always possible. Neither pass should be attempted without a competent guide.
if you are visiting the Gokyo valley in addition to Everest base camp it is as far better to trek to Gokyo after visiting Everest ,for acclimatization reasons. Follow the Everest trek route described previously and take the alternative exit route as far as Phortse. From here, follow the eastern side of the valley through some isolated settlements, which include the village of Konar, the only permanent settlement above Phortse. The trail climbs, mostly gently, up the valley with some superb view of Cho Oyu in front and Thamserku and Kangtega behind. There are no facilities available on the side of the valley until the small teahouse at nah is reached after about six hours walking from Phortse. Trekkers should therefore carry their supplies for the day. Nah is a good place to camp but for teahouse accommodation Pangkha, another hour further on, has far better facilities. From here the previously described trail is followed to Gokyo.

Jiri to Lukla
An alternative to taking the flight to Lukla is to trek in from the road ahead at Jiri. Jiri can be reached by local bus from Kathmandu in seven to ten hours depending on road conditions or by taxi or private car in five to six hours. There are no tourist bus services available. A newly opened extension to the road beyond Jiri currently reaches the village of Shivalaya but, since the bus takes over two hours from Jiri and walk takes barely three hours it makes little sense to take the bus.
The trek from Jiri to Lukla takes an average of seven days and gives preparation for the Everest base camp trek. It is never flat as it crosses the grain of the land for the first five days. The highest point reached before Lukla is Lamjura La pass, which is at 3530 meters above sea level. A highlight of the area around the Lamjura La is the magnificent display of pink and lilac rhododendrons in spring.
The trek passes through parts of Solukhumbu that are relatively undeveloped compared with the northern part of the district around Namche Bazaar. This enables trekkers to experience many traditional aspects of the culture of the local people that are less easy to see above Lukla. The trail passes through numerous settlements of different ethnic groups including Tamang, Jirel, Rai, Brahmin and Chhetri and, of course, the Sherpas. The trail is well serviced, with trekking teahouses and good campsites in most of the settlements. starting trekking from Jiri the night halts will most likely be at the villages of Deurali, Kenja, Sete, Lamjura, Junbesi, Trasindho, Karki Khola and Surkne(below Lukla). The most interesting of these stops is probably Junbesi, the oldest Sherpa settlement in Solu. An extra day spent here will be time well spent. The local teahouse owners will arrange guided day trips if you are traveling without your own guide but the main points of interest are the monastery of Thupten Chholing, about an hour above Junbesi and the villages of Mabung and Pangkarma which are en route to the monastery. The monastic school at Phungmoche, an hour above Thupten Chholing is also worth visiting and can offer guest accommodation for limited numbers.
Below the pass at Tragsindho the trail falls over 1500 meters to cross the Dudh Koshi. Here it follows the river and joins the main trail to Everest Base Camp below Lukla.

Other treks around Solu
The southern part of Solukhumbu (Solu) holds many attractions as a destination in its own right. The options are many but the best known of treks are the nine day trek over Pike, the Dudh kunda trek and treks east of the district headquarters at Salleri. None of these routes are serviced with so trekkers must be fully self-sufficient.
Over Pike Danda
This trek, of nine day's duration, usually starts in Jiri and ends with a flight back to Kathmandu from Phaplu. It is also possible to continue on from Phaplu and join the Everest trek at Ringmo, the village below the Tragsindho La pass. The highest of the trek is the stunning view from the top of pike, which includes Everest as well as a great number of lesser snow-capped peaks.
To travel over Pike Danda, follow the Jiri to Lukla trek as far as the Likhu Khola, before Kenja. The route then climbs steeply through the villages of Goli Gompa and Ngaur before reaching the 4065 meter summit of Pike. Descent to Phaplu is via the Sherpa village of Lodingma, home of several Everest summiteers .there is an alternative, rough, trail that joins the Jiri to Lukla trail near Lamjura La.
Due to the high altitude of Pike, trekkers must be particularly careful to watch for signs of AMS and be prepared to spend extra nights at Goli or Ngaur if necessary.

To Dudh Kunda
The sacred lake of Dudh kunda lies at the base of Mt.Nambur, the mountain regarded by the locals as being the home of the protective deity of Solu. In August there is an influx of devotees who come to perform cleansing ritual at the lake. At other time you are unlikely to meet anyone on this rarely traveled trail.
The main trail to Dudh kunda starts at Ringmo on the route between Junbesi and Tragsindho La. an alternative route to the lake starts at Thupten Chholing and follows a spectacular, isolated ridge through dense forest and then opens, and sometimes rocky, yak grazing pastures to join the main trail at Sarsarbeni. This latter trail is quite remote and a local guide may be needed if your staff is unfamiliar with the route.
From Ringmo, the trek to Dudh kunda takes a minimum of five days but at least one extra day for exploring around the lake should be allowed for. While at the lake, be sure to walk right around its shore and look for the spring, high up on the Northeastern side which is considered to be the source of the holy water.
There are several additional option for extending treks above Dudh Kunda but the remote nature of the country makes a locally experienced guide essential.

Treks around Salleri
The district headquarters of Solukhumbu can make an interesting base for several short walks visiting local villages and viewpoints. Salleri itself has few tourists but Phaplu, an hour's walk to the north, boasts a range of teahouse options and also has suitable camping sites.
The Chailsa-Chiwong Circuit
One of the nicest short treks follows the ridge above Salleri, to the east. This ridge the Ratanji Danda, gives mountain views across Makalu Barun N.P and also distant views of Everest. The route follows the ridge north as far as Tragsindho. then a circuit can be completed by following the valley back to Phaplu .along the trek highlights are the views, well preserved forest, the Tibetan resettlement camp at Chailsa (above Salleri) and the Buddhist monastery at Chiwong. Chiwong is famous for the Mani Rimdu festival held here each year in November. At least four nights should be allowed for this trek starting and ending in Phaplu.
There are many other possibilities in the area including reversing the Pike Danda trek described previously. Seek advice from local teahouse owners for details.

The Hinkhu and Hongu Valleys
Located to the west of Solukhumbu is the secluded and rarely visited Rolwaling valley. The upper reaches of the valley are connected to the Solukhumbu by the high and difficult pass of Trashi Labsta. Trekkers contemplating trek that connects Rolwaling with khumbu should always travel from east to west (khumbu to Rolwaling). To attempt to do the trek in reverse is likely to result in technical and altitude problems. The trek, particularly the crossing of Trashi Labsta, is one of the more difficult treks in Nepal and should only be attempted by self-sufficient, strong and experienced parties. Some basic mountaineering skills are required. Staff, particularly porters, must be experienced and from the district. For good acclimatization, a trek to Everest Base Camp or Gokyo, prior to crossing over to Rolwaling, is an excellent idea.
The route to Trashi Labsta starts at Thame (see Everest Base Camp description).it takes two nights to reach Trashi Labsta which, ideally, should be crossed early in the day to avoid rock fall from the slopes above. The pass is usually ice covered and porters carrying large loads will need assistance. If camping at the peaks, be careful to choose a campsite that is well away from the rock fall area.
The next two days are spent traveling down the Drolambao glacier. There are two icefalls on the route, which usually require the use of ropes to descend. At the end of the glacier is the massive Cho Rolpa glacial lake. This lake, which is now being drained, was at one time threatening to burst and inundate much of the Rolwaling valley.
After the glacier the upper Rolwaling valley is hemmed in by mountains on both sides with the bulk of Gauri Shankar on the northern side. The settlements on Nah and Beding are Sherpa villages, Nah being only a summer settlement. As you descended below beding the valley becomes forested first with juniper and pines and later the vegetation becomes lusher. The Sherpas give way to people of the middle hills mainly Tamang and Brahmins. After seven days from Trashi Labsta the end of the trek is reached at Charikot on the Kathmandu to Jiri road.

Everest to the Arun valley
As an alternative to Jiri or Lukla the Everest trek can be started or ended by trekking across to the valley in the eastern side of Nepal. The starting point can be Hille if traveling by road or Tumlingtar if a flight is preferred. Getting to or from Hille involves a lengthy bus journey from Kathmandu of around fourteen hours. If this route is taken an entry permit for Makalu Barun National Park is required.
If using the Arun valley as an alternative exit, the route leaves the main Everest trail at Kharte, the village above Khari Khola. It generally travels south east crossing the major rivers in the area, the Hindu Khola and the Hongu Khola, and two high passes, the Pangkoma la (3350 meters) and the Salpa La (3350 meters). Both of these passes give good views of the mountains to the north. The scenery along the trail ranges from mixed farming land and scattered Sherpa and Rai villages to stands of forest including rhododendron and oak. After trekking for five days from where several flights a week connect with Kathmandu and Biratnagar. A further two days trek to the south is Hille from where daily buses operate to Kathmandu.

The Himalayas & Mount Everest from Space -How Cool is This!
Mt. Everest is about 5.5 miles hight. A Boeing 777's cruising altitude is about 1 mile higherthan that at about 6.6 miles. Some business jetshave a ceiling of nearly 10 miles. The SR-71 Blackbird reached 16 miles of sustained flight.The ISS orbits at about 250 miles -- about 45times the altitude of Mt. Everest. If you considerthat we are looking down on Mt. Everest then thepicture must be higher than a typical passengerjet. But the picture does not appear to be MUCHhigher. Find points of reference to guesstimatehow much higher. The picture seems to be takenfrom the North-West looking toward the South-East.The Rongbuk Monastery is near where the twovalleys meet to form a V in the middle of the picture. The valley that heads straight up towardMt. Everest is roughly 10 miles long. So... Idunno -- I guess maybe 30 to 60 miles for theapparent altitude of the camera. Even if it wasonly 15 miles (3 times the height Mt. Everest)then that would still put this picture at therecord-setting altitudes of exotic aircraft. So it's a good bet that this picture was NOT takenfrom a plane. On the other extreme if the apparent height of the camera were 60 miles (more than 10times higher than Mt. Everest) then that wouldstill be far below the altitude of the ISS. Noneof the photos taken of the ISS with the Earth inthe background show anywhere near this level ofground detail.
So, you conclude they probably used a small telescope to take this picture aboard the ISS...You need about a 10X magnification to get an apparent altitude of 25 miles, but that's lookingstraight down. The ISS was probably at an angle sothey would need something a little bigger. You canget 500mm f/4 telephoto lenses cheap compared towhat NASA probably paid.

Location: Mt. Everest is manly in Nepal, the mountain country that is situated in the Himilayas.
Absolute Location: Mt. Everest is about 29 degrees north and 87 degrees east.
My Place is Famous for: Being the tallest place in the world!
Description: In pictures Mt. Everest doesn't look very tall to it's surroundings, but it is 29,028 feet from sea level!
Three Interesting Facts:The mountain continues to grow about one centimeter per year!It's Height is 29,028 feet!Temperatures on Mt. Everest can drop as low as -45 degrees Celsius, so cold that plastics become brittle, batteries stop working, and spit freezes before it hits the ground.

Nepal is known as land of Himalayas world over. There are 1,310 peaks above 6000 meters of which 238 are already opened for climbing. Likewise, out of fourteen 8000 meters above peaks eight of them, including the highest peak in the world, Mount Everest lie in Nepal. Other seven are namely Kanchenjunga, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Dhaulagiri, Manaslu and Annapurna.
Mt. Everest
Mount Everest is the highest mountain in the world measuring 8,848m (29,028 feet) in height. It was first climbed on May 29, 1953 by a New Zealander Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay of Nepal. Mount Everest is also known by the Tibetan name Chomolangma (goddess mother of the snows), and by the Nepali name Sagarmatha (Mother of the Universe).
Everest had been attempted many times before the important expeditions being that of 1922, 1923 and 1924.The body of George H.L. Mallory who died in an earlier attempt (1924), was discovered on the mountain in 1999. More than 600 climbers from 20 countries have climbed the summit by various routes from both north and south. Climbers' ages have ranged from nineteen years to sixty. Climbing on Everest is very strictly regulated by both the Nepalese and Chinese governments. Climbing Everest and Treks to Everest Base Camp are becoming increasingly popular on both the north and south sides of the mountain. On the north side, a Buddhist monastery is one of two whose locations were selected specifically to allow religious contemplation of the great peak. The other side is the Thyangboche Monastery in Nepal. The once active Rongbuk monastery in Tibet has required much rejuvenation from the destruction it experienced following China's.

The Himalayas & Mount Everest from Space -How Cool is This!

Submission of route map for Mountaineering Expedition
Every mountaineering team, while submitting an application to the Ministry of Culture, Tourism & Civil Aviation, Mountaineering Section for a mountaineering permit, should submit a map, as prescribe which clearly depicts the caravan route and the expedition route.
Payment of Climbing Royalty
The leader of the expedition team is required to pay the full amount of climbing permit fee (Royalty) within two months of the date of permission. In case of the failure of the payment of royalty within two months, such permission may be cancelled.
The climbing permit fee (Royalty) must be paid directly in favor of the ministry of Culture, Tourism & Civil Aviation, Mountaineering Section, either by bank draft or bank transfer to Nepal Rashtra Bank, Thapathali, Kathmandu, payable in convertible foreign currency.
Equipment for expedition
His Majesty's Government may provide the following facilities to any Mountaineering team which has obtained permit for mountaineering expedition:
To import and use temporarily, during the expedition such number of walkie – talkies not exceeding 12 and two sets of wireless having the capacity to communicate between the base camp and the nearest police station or the place where the means of telecommunication is available on the condition that such sets shall be taken back to the home country of the team after the end of the expedition.
Partial exemption of customs duty on the goods and materials imported for the expedition.
Two sets of wireless having the capacity to communicate between the base camp and the capital city Kathmandu, provide the mountaineering team desirous to use such facility shall have to hand over one of the two sets of wireless to the Ministry of Culture, Tourism & Civil Aviation, Mountaineering Section, for its use during the continuation of the expedition.
Mountaineering Regulation
The Royalty and the size of the Expedition Team:
More than one team may be permitted to climb Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) by a separate route each in one season.
A Royalty of US$50,000 has been fixed for Sagarmatha for a team consisting of seven members. The team may include 5 more members provided it pays extra US$ 10,000 for each additional member. The royalty includes trekking fee of the team members. The team members will be granted three months visa. Additional, US$ 20,000 will have to be paid by the team willing to scale Mt. Everest by normal south – east ridge route.
In all regions including Khumbu, an expedition team can have up to 7 members for the minimum, and 5 more members for the additional royalty.
The team already permitted to scale Mt. Everest will have to pay US$ 10,000 if it intends to change the accent route. It will have to pay additional US$ 20,000,if it intends to change the ascent route to normal south east ridge route
For peaks other than Mt. Everest, the team will have to pay an additional 25% of the royalty in US$ to change the ascent route.
Expedition team must complete all necessary administrative formalities and procedures in order to send back the garbage of the expedition team to their respective countries, after the completion of the expedition. The Ministry of Tourism & Civil Aviation will take necessary monetary deposit from them, which will be refunded after the dispatch of the garbage from Nepal.
Everest Region

As Mount Everest - known as Sagarmatha ("head of the sky" or "heaven head") in Nepal - is the highest mountain in the world, it is no surprise that large numbers of mountaineers and trekkers are drawn to the Everest region. The trek to the Everest region takes one into the Sagarmata National Park and some of the most outstanding mountain views in the world.
The trek goes through the valley of the Dudh Koshi, and passes through spectacular forests of blooming rhododendron, blue pine and fir.
The highlights of this trek include Namche Bazaar, the famous monastery at Tengboche and Kala Patthar on the way to the Everest Base Camp. This area is also abundant with high-Alpine wildlife, which includes the Himalayan tahr, musk deer and pikka (mouse hare). Some of the spectacular birds include the snow crow, snow pigeon and the Impean pheasant.

Trekking in Everest Region
For many their journey to Nepal would not be complete without a glimpse of the highest mountain on Earth. For some it will be enough to view Everest from the Kathmandu valley rim on a clear day, it is also possible to sit in the comfort of a plane seat for the experience. Others however settle only for a more intimate meeting with the last earthly rung on the stairway to the heavens. Everest area is the most popular trekking region in Nepal.The Everest Region is within Sagamartha National Park established in 1976 it lies some 120 kms North East of Kathmandu and covers an area of 1,148 sq. kms of the Himalayan ecological zone U.N.E.S.C.O. listed the Park as a World Heritage Site in 1979. The park includes the upper catchments areas of the Dudh Kosi and Bhote Kosi Rivers. The park is largely composed of rugged terrain and deep gorges within an elevation of 2845m at Monju to the top of the world, Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) at 8,848m above sea level. Other peaks above 6,000m are Lhotse, Cho-Oyu, Thamserku, Nuptse, Amadablam, and Pumori.
The vegetation at lower levels is dominated by silver fir, birch, rhododendron and juniper trees, at around 4500m the forest gives way to Juniper and rhododendron scrub. The park contains a variety of mammals, Himalayan thar, musk deer, the Himalayan red panda and the Himalayan black bear are all native to the park.
The famed Sherpa people, whose lives are interwoven with the teachings of Buddhism, live in the region. The renowned Tengboche and other monasteries are common gathering places to celebrate religious festivals such as Dumje and Mane Rumdu. In addition to Tengboche, Thame, Khumjung and Pangboche are some other famous monasteries.
The trek from Namche to Kala Pathar is very popular. The Gokyo Lake and Chukung valleys also provide spectacular views. The Thame Valley is popular for Sherpa culture while Phortse is famous for wildlife viewing. There are some high passes worth crossing over. However, the trekkers must have a guide and proper equipment for the trek.

Mount Everest

Mt.everest information

How tall The official altitude of the world's highest peak is 29,029 feet (8,848m). However, the National Geographic Society has determined the height to be 6 feet taller, 29,035 feet, but the Nepali government has not yet been made this new altitude official.Shifting tectonic plates continue to push Everest upward, along with the whole Himalaya mountain range, at 1.6 to 3.9 inches (4 to 10 centimeters) per year.

Where is Mt. Everest?

Everest is part of the Himalaya mountain range along the border of Nepal and Tibet. It is located 27° 59' North latitude, 86° 55' East longitude.

Why is it called Everest?

1841, Sir George Everest, Surveyor General of India from 1830 to 1843, first recorded the location of Everest. It was subsequently named "Peak XV". In 1865, it was renamed Mt. Everest to honor Sir George.Everest is also called Chomolungma in Tibet and Sagarmatha in Nepal.

Is it windy at the top of Everest?

Yes. Blowing with the strength of a hurricane at 118+ miles/hour, the Jet Stream blasts the rocky, icy summit of Everest nearly all year long. The Jet Stream is a constant wind force at 4 - 6 miles above the earth. Observers can tell when the Jet Stream is blowing on the summit of Everest from the long while stream of ice crystals extending out from the tip of the mountain. Those wishing to actually stand on the summit have to choose their moment carefully: the mountain is most inviting in early May, when the Jet Stream is pushed northward over Tibet by the arrival of the monsoon. There is also a window of opportunity in the Fall when the Jet Stream is again pushed northward.

Is the air very thin on Everest?

As the altitude increases, the oxygen content of the air decreases dramatically. At 9,800 feet, for example, there's about 2/3 of the oxygen in the air than at sea level. At 20,000 ft, there is roughly half the oxygen content in the air. At 29,035ft, the summit of Everest, there is only a third of the oxygen in the air.

How does your body get used to the altitude?

Mountaineers climbing Everest establish a camp at the base of the mountain, and four higher camps before reaching the summit. For the next 30 days or so, they will move up, then down again, allowing their bodies to get used to the reduced oxygen content of the air.This process is called acclimatization.

Acclimatizing properly is essential to safely ascend to high altitudes. Climbers acclimatize by ascending slowly, resting one day for every 1,000 feet they climb in one day. They drink plenty of liquids and eat healthy food. They also practice a rule of thumb: climb high, sleep low. Climbing high, then descending to lower altitudes allows the body to build up and gain strength with fresh oxygen, digest food better, get sounder sleep and any wounds can heal and they'll feel much stronger by descending. It was also allow them to build up their bodies, worn from
the low O2 content, with fresh oxygen.

Some climbers don't like to go down, but the significant benefits on the body from staying at lower altitudes make it worth it. It's important that the climbers don't stay down too long because it's possible to lose some acclimatization in the process.

How high are the camps?

The approximate elevations of each of the camps are:Base Camp - 17,500ft (5,400m)Camp 1 - 20,000ft (6,100m) Camp 2 - 21,300ft (6,500m)Camp 3 - 24,000ft (7,400m) Camp 4 - 26,000ft (8,000m)Summit - 29,035ft (8,850)

What is the temperature high on Everest?

At the summit, the temperature can be 100°F below zero. But on a good summit day, a climber can expect around -15°F

What is the hardest part about climbing Everest?

Each climber has a different opinion about what is the most difficult part of climbing Everest. Most would agree, though, that the altitude is tough to deal with. And most will also have stories about crossing the infamous Khumbu Icefall going from Base Camp to Camp One. Mountaineers climb through this moving sea of ice using ordinary aluminum garden ladders.

When was Everest first climbed?

On May 29, 1953, Tenzing Norgay Sherpa of Nepal & Edmund Percival Hillary of New Zealand climbed to the summit of Everest via the Southeast Ridge Route
What are some other important "firsts"?The first woman to climb Everest was Junko Tabei of Japan. She climbed via the Southeast Ridge on 16 May, 1975.
Appa Sherpa has made the most successful ascents of Everest. He has reached the top 11 times.

On May 8, 1978, Peter Habeler of Austria and Reinhold Messner of Italy climbed made the first ascent without bottled oxygen via the Southeast Ridge.
Ang Rita Sherpa has reached the summit 10 times, all without oxygen.

Reinhold Messner climbed for 3 days completely alone from his base camp at 6,500m without the use of artificial O2. Messner climbed via the North Col to the North Face and the Great Couloir.

Babu Chiri Sherpa set the speed record from the Nepal side.
Davo Karnicar made the first true ski descent.
At age 16 Temba Tsheri Sherpa become the youngest person to Summit Everest in 2001.

American Sherman Bull, at age 64, is the oldest person to summit Mount Everest, also in 2001.

Anna Czerwinska was born on 7/10/49 and climbed Everest from Nepal side, making her the oldest woman to reach the summit.

On 24 May, 1996, Hans Kammerlander of Italy Hans made the fastest ascent of Everest via the standard North Col-North Ridge-North Face. He left base camp at 6,400m on 23 May at 5pm and was on the summit 16 hours, 45 minutes later at 9:45 am the next day. He descended most of the route on skis.

Andrej & Marija Stremfelj of Slovenia were the first married couple to summit together on 7 October, 1990.
Peter Hillary of New Zealand was the first son of a summiteer to reach the summit on 10 May, 1990.

First Ascent by an American was made by James Whittaker via the Southeast Ridge Route on May 1, 1963. Whittaker summitted with Sherpa Nawang Gombu.
Stacey Allison made the first Ascent by an American Woman via the Southeast Ridge Route on 29 September, 1988. Mexican climber Ricardo Torres was the first Latin American.

In May, 2001, American Erik Weihenmayer becomes the first blind person to summit Everest. May 23, 2003, Gary Guller became the first person with one arm to reach the summit of Everest.

MOUNT EVEREST HISTORY/FACTS:

Welcome to Mount Everest facts. In this site you will find many informative facts of Mt.Everest and a bit of history. Any facts or history bits you feel should be added, just send an e-mail as usual at the bottom of page..

EVEREST FACTS

Age of Everest:

Everest was formed about 60 million years ago
Elevation:

29,035 (8850m)-found to be 6' higher in 1999
Name in Nepal:

Sagarmatha (means: goddess of the sky)
In Tibet:

Chomolungma:(means: mother goddess of the universe)
Named after:

Sir George Everest in 186 5 ,the British surveyor- general of India. Once known as Peak 15
Location: Latitude 27° 59' N.....Longitude 86It's summit ridge seperates Nepal and Tibet
First Ascent:

May 29,1953 by Sir Edmund Hillary, NZ and Tenzing Norgay, NP, via the South Col Route
First Solo Ascent:
Aug. 20,1980, Reinhold Messner, IT, via the NE Ridge to North Face
First winter Ascent:
Feb. 17,1980 -L.Cichy and K. Wielicki, POL
First Ascent by an American:
May 1,1963, James Whittaker, via the South-Col
Mt. Everest rises a few milimeters each year due to geological forces
Everest Name:
Sir George Everest was the first person to record the height and location of Mt. Everest, this is where Mt."Everest" got its name from(In american language)
First Ascent by a Woman:
May 16,1975, Junko Tabei, JAP, via the South-Col
First Ascent by an American Woman:
Sep.29,1988, Stacey Allison, Portland, OR via the South-East Ridge
First Oxygenless Ascent:
May 8, 1978- Reinhold Messner, IT, and Peter Habeler, AUT, via the South-East Ridge
First woman to reach the summit of Mount Everest from both north & south sides:
Cathy O'Dowd (S.A.) South May 25,1996/North '99
Fastest Ascent from South:
Babu Chhiri Sherpa 34, NP-16 hours and 56 minutes (5-21-2000)
Fastest Ascent (north side):
Hans Kammerlander (IT) May,24,1996, via the standard North Col Ridge Route, 16 hours 45 minutes from base camp
Youngest person:
Temba Tsheri (NP) 15 on May,22,2001
Oldest Person:
Sherman Bull May,25,2001 -64 yrs
First Legally Blind Person:
Erik Weihenmeyer May,25,2001
Most Ascents:
Eleven, 24th May 2000 Appa Sherpa became the first person to climb Everest 11 times-Ten, Ang Rita Sherpa, Babu Chiri Sherpa all ascents were oxygen-less.
Best and Worst Years on Everest:
1993, 129 summitted and eight died (a ratio of 16:1); in 1996, 98 summitted and 15 died (a ratio of 6½:1)
Highest cause cause of death:
Avalanches-about a (2:1) ratio over falls
Country with most deaths on mountain:
Nepal-46
Most dangerous area on mountain:
Khumbu Ice Fall-19 deaths
First ski descent:
Davo Karnicar (Slovenia) 10-7-2000
Last year without ascent:
1974
Last year without ascent:
1977
Corpses remaining on Everest:
about 120
Longest stay on top:
Babu Chiri Sherpa stayed at the summit full 21 hours and a half
Largest team:
In 1975, China tackled Everest with a 410-member team.
Fastest descent:
In 1988, Jean-Marc Boivin of France descended from the top in just 11 minutes, paragliding.
Only climber to climb all 4 sides of Everest:
Kushang Sherpa, now an instructor with Himlayan Mountaineering Institute
First person to hike from sea level to summit, no oxygen.:
11th May 1990,Tim Macartney-Snape, Australian
Largest number to reach the top in one day:
40, on May 10, 1993
First person to summit Everest twice:
Nawang Gombu-Nepal(once with Whitaker in '63,and again two years later in '65)Gombu now works for the Himalayan mountaineering institute
The oldest woman to summit:
Anna Czerwinska May 22, 2000.

Mt Everest: Facts

Mount Everest, conquered for the first time by Sir Edmund Hillary with Sherpa Tenzing Norgay in 1953, is the highest mountain on Earth. Sir Edmund died on Friday aged 88. Here are some facts about the mountain he loved.
Mount Everest is 8,850 metres high. It rises a few millimetres each year due to geological forces.
Its summit ridge separates Nepal and Tibet.
Mount Everest was named after Sir George Everest, the surveyor-general of India who was the first to produce detailed maps of the Indian subcontinent including the Himalayas.
Prior to Hillary's ascent, all previous attempts on Everest had been made from Tibetan side in the north.

In 1950 when China invaded Tibet, the north approach was blocked off. At the same time Nepal opened its borders for the first time. The expedition Hillary joined made their assault from the south.By the 50th anniversary of Hillary's ascent in May 2003 over 1,300 people had reached the summit of Everest. The latest figure is about 1,500 men and women from 64 nations.

history of mount everest
1841: Sir George Everest, Surveyor General of India from 1830 to 1843, records the location of Everest.
1848: Peak b is surveyed the British, which ruled India; The height is calculated at 30,200 feet from measurements taken 110 miles away.
1852: The Great Trigonmetrical Survey of India determines the Peak XV is the highest mountain in the world.
1854: Peak b renamed Peak XV.
1856: Surveyor Andrew Waugh completes the first height measurement, declaring Everest to be 8840 meters high. (29,002 feet).
1865: Peak XV re-named Mt. Everest to honor Sir George Everest, the Surveyor General of India. Everest is known as Chomolungma in Tibet and Sagarmatha in Nepal.
1903: The Viceroy of India, Lord Curzon, concerned about possible Russian influence inside Tibet, sends Sir Francis Younghusband to ostensibly negotiate "frontiers and trade". The Tibetans refuse to enter negotiations, so Younghusband leads a British Army Expedition to Lhasa. A treaty is eventually signed in September, 1904, after the Dalai Lama flees to Mongolia.
1904: A member of Younghusband's staff, J. Claude White, photographs the Eastern side of Everest from Kampa Dzong, 94 miles away. While not the first photograph of Everest ever taken, it's the first to show any significant details of the mountain.
1907: Natha Singh, a member of the British Indian Survey, obtains permission to enter the Mount Everest region from the Nepalese side. He maps the Dudh Kosi valley - gateway to the southern route up the mountain - all the way to the end of the Khumbu Glacier.
1913: Captain John Noel, a British military officer, travels to Tibet in disguise (at the time foreigners were forbidden in Tibet) to find the best way to approach Everest. He comes to within 60 miles of Everest, only to find his way blocked by an unexpected mountain range that did not appear on his faulty maps. Noel is able to view the top 1000 feet (300 meters) of Everest when it appears out of the shifting mists, a "glittering spire of rock fluted with snow".
1920: The Dalai Lama opens Tibet to outsiders after the political situation involving China and Russia relaxes somewhat. The Royal Geographic Society and the Alpine Club hold a joint meeting to discuss how to proceed with an expedition to Mount Everest. Explorers had reached both the North and South Poles, so the next "feat" was Everest. The Mount Everest Committee is established by Younghusband, and a formal resolution is passed stating that an expedition would take place the following year with reconnaissance as the first priority, (although a summit attempt was not discouraged). A full-scale summit attempt was to be launched the following year in 1922.
1921: The First British Everest Reconnaissance Expedition to the mountain, led by Lt. Colonel Charles Howard-Bury. This is George Leigh Mallory's first trip to the mountain. After spending ten weeks exploring the northern and eastern reaches of the mountain, on September 24, 1921, Guy Bullock and George Mallory were the first climbers to reach the North Col of Everest at an altitude of around 23,000 feet (7000 meters). The northern route up the mountain had now been established.
1922: The Second British Everest Expedition to the mountain, led by Brigadier General C.G. Bruce, following the same route reconnoitered the previous year. George Mallory returns along with climbers George Finch, Geoffrey Bruce, Henry Morshead, Edward Norton, Howard Somervell, and John Noel as expedition filmmaker. On May 22nd, Mallory, Norton, Somervell and Morshead make the first assault, and climb to 26,800 feet (8170 m) on the North Ridge before retreating. On May 23rd, George Finch and Geoffrey Bruce climb up the North Ridge and Face to 27,300 (8320 meters) feet using oxygen. On June 7th, Mallory leads a third attempt on the summit that claims the lives of seven Sherpa climbers in an avalanche below the North Col, the first reported deaths on Everest.
1923: While on a lecture tour in the United States, a reporter asks Mallory why he wants to climb Everest, and Mallory immortally replies "Because it's there".
1924: The Third British Everest Expedition to the mountain, led by Acting Leader Lt. Colonel Edward Norton after Brigadier General C.G. Bruce is indisposed due to a flare-up of malaria. As a result George Mallory is promoted to Climbing Leader. Geoffrey Bruce, Howard Somervell, and John Noel return from the previous year, along with newcomers Noel E. Odell and Andrew Comyn Irvine.
1924: June 4th: After weeks of appalling weather, a string of camps are established on the northern side of the mountain, culminating in Camp 6 at 26,700 feet (8140 meters) on the North Ridge. Norton and Somervell attempt an oxygenless ascent, following an ascending diagonal line across the North Face of the mountain towards the Great Couloir. After Somervell is forced to give up at about 28,000 feet (8500 meters), Norton continues alone, reaching a high point of 28,126 feet (8570 meters) near the top of the Great Couloir, a height record not exceeded by anyone for the next 29 years!
1924: June 8th: George Mallory and Andrew Irvine attempt the summit using oxygen and Irvine's modified oxygen apparatus. Noel Odell, climbing in support below, catches a glimpse of the climbers at 12:50 pm ascending a "great rock step" on the NE Ridge above. According to Odell they were behind schedule but climbing "with alacrity"; the first of many climbers on Everest to go for the summit too late. Odell originally thought he spotted the two climbers ascending the Second Step, but later changed his mind to the First Step when told how difficult the Second Step looked to a later generation of Everest climbers (the 1933 British Expedition). During the 1933 expedition, Andrew Irvine's ice ax is found on the upper slopes of the mountain at about 27,690 feet (8440 meters) and approximately 250 yards (meters) east of the First Step. Eric Simonson's 1999 Mallory & Irvine Research Expedition discovers an oxygen bottle that belonged to the pair near the base of the First Step, and Mallory's remains were found at 26,750 feet (8150 meters), on a line vertically below the ice ax position. No evidence of a successful summit bid has been found, nor have any signs of the two climbers been found above the Second Step, the key to the route. Despite the lack of hard evidence, the debate on whether they reached the summit of Everest continues to this day.
1931: March 19: The Mount Everest Committee is re-established with Sir William Goodenough as Chair. Concerned of the growing reputation of American and German climbers - the latter having gained much experience on Kangchenjunga - the Committee makes inquiries into the possibility of another British expedition to Everest. Eventually the Dalai Lama gives "reluctant permission" so that "friendly relations may not be ruptured".
1933: April 3: First flight over Mount Everest by two British Westland biplanes powered by turbocharged Pegasus engines. The planes take off from Purneah, India. Buffeted by downdrafts and Everest's plume, the flight fails to obtain a photo of the summit when the photographer blacks out due to a ruptured oxygen line. The flight is successfully repeated on April 19th, although the actual summit wasn't flown over this time.
1933: The Fourth British Expedition. A new generation of climbers attempts Everest under the Leadership of Hugh Ruttledge. These new climbers include Jack Longland, Frank Smythe, Eric Shipton, P. Wyn Harris, and L.R. Wager. Along with a powerful and spirited team of Sherpa "Tigers", Camp 6 is established on a ledge half-way up the Yellow Band at a height of 27,300 feet (8320 meters) - the Sherpas wanted to continue higher to a campsite at the base of the First Step, but it is wisely decided that they would not get back to the North Col before dark. Longland leads the Sherpas back down, but they are caught in a fierce and unexpected storm. Longland manages to keep his bearings and keeps the party en route down the spine of the North Arete. During the descent they discover the remains of the 1924 Camp 6, and even find a working battery-operated torch in the debris.
May 30th: The first oxygenless summit attempt by Wyn Harris and Wager. Their plan is to reconnoiter Mallory's ridge route, and if not feasible, attempt Norton's Great Couloir route instead. Early in the ascent they find Andrew Irvine's ice ax at 27,690 feet (8440 meters), some 250 yards (meters) east of the First Step. The pair continues traversing below the NE Ridge, but are unable to gain the Ridge via a shallow gully below the Second Step, having missed their only chance to gain the Ridge by ascending a 4th class gully on the north side of the First Step. They continue traversing into and across the Great Couloir, and manage to reach Norton's high point before admitting defeat.
June 1st: A second oxygenless attempt is made by Eric Shipton and Frank Smythe. In a truly superhuman effort, they make an attempt after spending two nights in the Death Zone without oxygen waiting for good weather. They follow essentially the same ascending line taken by Wyn Harris and Wager to the base of the First Step, but continue along Norton's traversing Great Couloir route. Shipton is forced to give up a little past the First Step, and Smythe continues alone, crossing the Great Couloir somewhat lower down than his predecessors where the ledges were more favorable. Smythe too gives up at Norton's high point, so the 1933 Expedition ends up unsuccessful.
1934: The eccentric Maurice Wilson attempts to solo Everest, having no mountaineering experience but possessing an inner faith to succeed. Camped at the base of the North Col, Wilson asks his Sherpas to wait ten days for him to return, after which they would be free to leave. He doesn't return, so the Sherpas return to Darjeeling, where Tenzing Norgay reports seeing them with large amounts of money. Wilson's body is later found at approximately 21,000 feet (6400 meters) below the North Col by members of the 1935 Reconnaissance Expedition. He was found in the remains of his tent; apparently he had died while in the act of taking off his boots. How far did he get? No one knows... His body was buried in a crevasse and it periodically resurfaces over the years as the East Rongbuk Glacier continues its steady advance downhill.
1935: Fifth British Expedition (Reconnaissance). A small post-monsoon expedition led by Eric Shipton, that was Tenzing Norgay's first trip to the mountain as a young porter. Expedition members include Bill Tilman, Dr. C.B.M. Warren, E.G.H. Kempson, L.V. Bryant, and E.H.L. Wigram. The expedition concentrates on exploring, surveying, and climbing in the Everest region (where off in the distance they can see that Everest is in perfect condition to climb). The party doesn't reach Rongbuk until early July, where coated in monsoon snow, the mountain is out of condition to climb. Nevertheless, since investigating the possibility of a post-monsoon attempt is one of the charges of the reconnaissance, they establish Camp III at the base of the North Col, where they find the remains of Maurice Wilson. On July 12 they reach the North Col with enough supplies for two weeks. Continuous monsoon snows prevent any further advance up the mountain, so the expedition splits into several groups that engage in an orgy of climbing and exploring in the region before returning to Darjeeling.
1936: Sixth British Expedition with Hugh Ruttledge returning as Leader. Also returning to Everest are Frank Smythe, Eric Shipton, P. Wyn Harris, E.G.H. Kempson, Dr. C.B.M. Warren, and E.H.L. Wigram along with two newcomers, P.R. Oliver and J.M.L. Gavin. Tenzing Norgay returns for his second expedition as a porter. For the first time, lightweight radio sets are taken to Everest. A large, strong, and experienced expedition with many hopes of reaching the top, it failed because of the early onset of the monsoon on May 25th. Interestingly enough, the only two expeditions to Everest that had a late monsoon were the '21 and '35 Reconnaissance!
1938: Seventh British Expedition. Led by Bill Tilman who advocated smaller, less expensive expeditions (although he is convinced to bring four oxygen sets along). Accompanying Tilman are Eric Shipton, Frank Smythe, C.B.M. Warren, P. Floyd, P.R. Oliver, and Noel Odell from the tragic 1924 expedition. Odell is now 47 years old, but extremely fit after climbing Nanda Devi in 1936 with Tilman. Returning yet again as a porter is the persistent Tenzing Norgay. Remembering the early onset of the monsoon suffered by the 1936 expedition, they arrive at Rongbuk early on April 6th and surprisingly find the mountain already clear of winter snow. Three weeks later Camp III is established below the North Col, but the weather is too cold and the party too ill to continue. They retreat to the Kharta Valley to recuperate at the lower altitude. When they returned to Everest a week later, the monsoon had unbelievably broken on May 5th and the mountain was covered in snow. Nevertheless a camp is placed on the North Col, and then Camp 6 is established on a scree slope below the Yellow Band at 27,200 feet (8290 meters). In back-to-back assaults, Smythe and Shipton are turned back by the deep snow, as are Tilman and Lloyd the next day. The expedition fails, but it had proved that a small expedition could place climbers in position for a serious summit bid.
1947: A successor to the old Everest Committee is formed - the Himalayan Committee of the Alpine Club and Royal Geographical Society.
1947: Canadian-born Brit Earl Denman attempts to illegally climb Everest from the North along with Sherpas Ang Dawa and Tenzing Norgay, the latter back after nine years for his fourth attempt on the mountain. After nearly being arrested by a Tibetan patrol en route, the trio reach the Rongbuk Monastery. Using Denman's woefully inadequate equipment, and suffering terribly from the cold, they reach the foot of the North Col but in a terribly weakened condition. After a feeble attempt on the lower slopes of the Col, they admit defeat and turn back. Denman is forced to walk part of the way back to Darjeeling in bare feet after his boots wear out. Amazingly the whole 600-plus mile (1000 km) roundtrip from Darjeeling to Everest and back took only five weeks by foot.
1950: In October the Communist Chinese invade Tibet, and Tibet falls under Chinese rule. Everest expeditions from the North are prohibited.
1950: After a palace revolution in which the ruling Rana family are overthrown, Nepal opens up to the West, partially as a result of the Chinese takeover in Tibet. Foreign expeditions are allowed access to the southern side of Everest for the first time.
1950: Anglo-American Nepal Reconnaissance. Organized and led by the American Dr. Charles Houston and including Bill Tilman. The group enters the Solu Khumbu region - homeland of the Sherpas - and explores to the base of the Khumbu Icefall. Tilman concludes that the route up into the Western Cwm is not a viable one!
1951: Without official permission from Nepal, and only a few months after the 1950 Anglo-American Nepal Reconnaissance, the Dane Klavs Becker-Larsen attempts to climb the Northern pre-war Everest route but via a southern approach. With a party of Sherpa porters and guides, he attempts to enter Tibet via the Lho La, and actually climbs about halfway up before being turned back by rockfall and his lack of experience (it was the first time he had ever used an ice ax!). Undeterred, Larsen crosses the Nampa La instead and reaches the Rongbuk Monastery. Several days later Larsen and two Sherpas attempt to climb the North Col but turn back after yet more rockfall. Larsen wisely gives up the attempt and returns to Nepal.
1951: British Reconnaissance supported by the Alpine Club and the Royal Geographic Society. A post-monsoon exploration led by Eric Shipton with M.P. Ward, T. Bourdillon, W.H. Murray, and New Zealanders Edmund Hillary and H. Riddiford, the expedition was forced to contend with swollen streams, washed-out bridges, leeches, and reluctant porters. On the 22nd of September they reached Namche Bazaar, and three days later left with the objective of scaling the Khumbu Icefall and entering the Western Cwm. From a vantagepoint on the lower slopes of Pumori, they could see that the route up to the South Col looked feasible. Eventually the expedition pushed the route almost completely through to the top of the Icefall before retreating.
1952: Swiss Expeditions sponsored by the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research
Spring Attempt: led by Dr. E. Wyss-Dunant with climbers G. Chevalley, R. Lambert, R. Dittert, L. Flory, R. Aubert, A. Roch, J. Asper, E. Hofstetter, and Tenzing Norgay as Sirdar. The party ascends the Geneva Spur and places Camp VI on the South Col. Camp VII is placed at approximately 27,500 feet (8382 meters) on the SE Ridge. After a miserable night without sleeping bags or a stove, Tenzing Norgay and Raymond Lambert make an attempt using oxygen but fail below the South Summit at an altitude of 28,210 feet (8595 meters), beating Norton's height record by only 84 feet (25 meters)!
Post-Monsoon Attempt: led by G. Chevalley with climbers R. Lambert, E. Reiss, J. Buzio, A. Spohel, G. Gross, N.G. Dyhrenfurth. The indomitable Tenzing returns again as expedition Sirdar. Instead of climbing the Geneva Spur, the route is pushed up the Lhotse Face instead, now the standard route. Unfortunately the expedition is fraught with bad luck and the Sherpa Mingma Dorje is killed on the Lhotse Face by falling ice, the first Everest fatality in twenty years since Maurice Wilson. Climbing along with the same party, incredibly a second rope slips on the ice and falls 600 feet (180 meters) to the bottom of the slope. Miraculously no one else is injured. A camp is established on the South Col, but the arrival of winter's bitter cold and fierce gales puts an end to the attempt. The expedition lays the groundwork for 1953.
1952: Rumors of a post-monsoon Russian attempt from the North led by Dr. Pawel Datschnolian, possibly with the hope of beating the Swiss to the top and scoring major propaganda points in an age of Sputnik. There are reports that this expedition left Moscow on October 16th and eventually placed Camp VII at 26,800 feet (8170 meters) before six climbers (including Datschnolian) simply disappeared. The Russians deny the expedition ever took place and the Chinese have never made any mention of it. Interestingly enough, in an interview with the Tibetan Gonbu (also known as Gonpa), a member of the successful 1960 Chinese first ascent of the North Ridge, a "mystery camp" was encountered at 27,900 feet (8500 meters). Located above the Yellow Band, this camp could not have been placed there by any of the British pre-war expeditions. Was the camp placed there by this "mystery" Soviet expedition?
1953: British Expedition and FIRST SUMMIT. Led by Colonel John Hunt and consisting of climbers Dr. R.C. Evans, G. Band, T. Bourdillon, A. Gregory, Edmund Hillary, W.G. Lowe, C. Noyce, M.P. Ward, M. Westmacott, and C.G. Wylie. Returning as Sirdar from the Swiss attempts is yet again Tenzing Norgay. The route through the Icefall is completed by April 22, Camp VI is established at the foot of the Lhotse face at 23,000 feet (7000 meters), and after a lengthy delay, the South Col is reached via the Lhotse Face route pioneered by the Swiss the year before.
May 26: First Assault by Evans and Bourdillon from the South Col using closed-circuit oxygen sets. The same day Hunt leads a party of Sherpas from the South Col with the intent to establish Camp IX on the SE Ridge for the second assault party consisting of Hillary and Tenzing. Evans and Bourdillon reach the South Summit at 1 PM at an elevation of 28,750 feet (8770 meters), but are forced to descend due to the lateness of the hour, strong winds, and lack of oxygen.
May 29: Second Assault by Hillary and Tenzing using open-circuit oxygen sets. They leave Camp IX at approximately 27,900 feet (8500 meters) by 6:30 AM, and reach the S. Summit by 9 AM. After negotiating the 40 foot (12 meter) Hillary Step, they are the first to reach the summit of Everest, reaching the top at 11:30 AM. After descending to the South Col, they are met by George Lowe where Hillary states: "Well, George, we knocked the bastard off!"
1955: The height of Everest is adjusted by 26 feet to 29,028 feet (8848 meters).
1956: Swiss Everest/Lhotse Expedition led by A. Eggler with W. Diehl, H. Grimm, Dr E. Leuchtold, F. Luchsinger, J. Marmet, F. Muller, E. Reiss, A. Reist, E. Schmied, H. Von Gunten and Sirdar Pasang Dawa Lama. The South Col was reached by the middle of May, and a successful summit bid was done on Lhotse via the very difficult North ridge on May 18 by Reiss and Von Gunten. On May 23 from a high camp at 27,500 feet (8400 meters) on the SE Ridge, Schmied and Marmet reach the summit. The following day Reist and Von Gunten also reach the summit.
1958: Joint Chinese/Russian reconnaissance from the North that reaches 21,000 feet (6,400 meters) below the North Col. The plan was for the two countries to return later for a joint assault, but this expedition never materialized after relations between the two states deteriorate.
1960: Chinese and Tibetan team of 214 men and women, led by Shih Chan- chun, makes the first summit of Everest via the North Col and Northeast Ridge. Long doubted by Western mountaineers because of the lack of a summit photo and the claim of summiting at night, the photos and film the Chinese did release reveal that they at least climbed the Second Step, the key to the route (although Reinhold Messner claims he possesses documentation proving they didn't climb it, so far this evidence has not been produced). The final assault party of Wang Fu-chou, Liu Lien-man, Chu Yin-hua, and the Tibetan Gonbu (also known as Gonpa) assaulted the final 15 foot (5 meter) Second Step headwall using pitons and team tactics. After Liu Lien- man repeatedly falls off attempting to lead the pitch, Chu Yin-hua takes off his boots and socks, and using a shoulder stand climbs thelast vertical pitch in bare feet! Exhausted by his effort, Liu Lien- man is forced to halt at 28,600 feet (8,700 meters), but the remaining three climbers make it to the summit where they purportedly leave a plaster bust of Chairman Mao by a rock outcrop.
1960: First Indian Expedition led by Brigadier G. Singh. Climbers Capt. N. Kumar, Sonam Gyatso, and Sherpa Nawang Gombu reach 28,300 feet (8625 meters) just below the South Summit before retreating in a violent storm and driving snow.
1962: Illegal four-man expedition led by the American Woodrow Wilson Sayre following the pre-war British route up the North Col and NE Ridge. Possessing a permit to climb Gyanchung Kang from the Nepalese side, the party ascends the Ngozumpa Icefall with Sherpa support, but then surreptitiously crosses the Nup La into Tibet. Without porters and relying on a grueling schedule of load-shuttling that covers the same ground three times daily, the group reaches the base of the North Col in nineteen days. They climb the North Col, but a fall lands Sayre and partner Roger Hart in a crevasse where they survive the night by wrapping themselves up in a tent. Undeterred, Sayre and Norman Hansen set off the very next day up the North Ridge, but can only climb 1,200 feet (400 meters) in the next two days. Realizing that they are beaten, they turn back but Sayre slips and falls 600 feet (200 meters) down the North Ridge snowfield before stopping. Incredibly, the now emaciated and half-starved expedition is able to return back over the Nup La into Nepal without encountering Chinese patrols.
1962: Second Indian Expedition with Major John Dias as leader. Returning to the SE Ridge route, climbers Sonam Gyatso, Hari Dang, and Mohan Kohli are forced to retreat from a high point of 28,600 feet (8720 meters) because of bad weather.
1963: American Expedition with Norman Dyhrenfurth as leader and including A. Auten, Barry Bishop, Jake Breitenbach, J. Corbet, D. Dingman, D. Doody, R. Emerson, Tom Hornbein, Lute Jerstad, J. Lester, Willi Unsoeld, and Jim Whittaker. A huge expedition, costing almost $400,000 and supported by the National Geographic Society, over 900 porters carry 29 tons of food and equipment to the base of the mountain. Base Camp is established at the foot of the Khumbu Icefall on Mar 21 and the route through the icefall prepared soon after. Jake Breitenbach is killed by collapsing seracs in the Icefall but the expedition continues. The expedition splits into two parties - the West Ridgers and the South Collers.
First Assault: May 1 From Camp 6 at 27,450 feet (8370 meters) on the SE Ridge, Jim Whittaker and Sherpa Nawang Gombu reach the summit in strong winds at 1 PM. Whittaker becomes the first American to summit Everest.
Second Assault: After a tent at Camp 4W - including occupants - is nearly blown off the West Shoulder by hurricane force winds, Camp 5W is placed in the Hornbien Couloir at the foot of the Yellow Band at 27,250 feet (8300 meters). Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld squeeze their way through the couloir and ascend a 60 foot (20 meter) headwall before emerging onto the upper summit pyramid at 27,900 feet (8500 meters). The pair then traverse across to the West Ridge proper, reaching the summit at 6:15 PM. They are forced to descend the SE Ridge where they meet Jerstad and Bishop who had summited at 3:30 PM. The four men descend to around 28,000 feet (8500 meters) before having to bivouac for the night on the ridge proper. They survive a long, cold night out in the open and descend safely to the South Col the next day. Unsoeld later loses most of his toes to frostbite. The first new route and the first traverse of Everest.
1965: Third Indian Expedition, with Commander M.S Kohli as leader. On May 20, 1965 they succeed when A.S. Cheema and Sherpa Nawang Gombu ascend the SE Ridge. Gombu becomes the first person to summit Everest twice (the 11th and 17th summit). Out of the first seventeen summits of Everest, Nawang had two of them! Additional summits were achieved by Sonam Gyatso, Sonam Wangyal, C.P. Vohra, Ang Kami, H.P.S. Ahluwalia, H.C.S. Rawat, and Phu Dorje.
1966-1969: Nepal is closed to mountaineering during this politically tense period involving antagonists India and China.
1969: Japanese SW Face Reconnaissance Expeditions. In the Spring, a party including Naomi Uemura enters the Western Cwm and probes the lower slopes. The Japanese return in the autumn with Uemura and Masatsugu Konishi, and the route is pushed up the Central Gully to the base of the Rock Band before the expedition returns home, convinced that a full-scale expedition could succeed.
1970: Japanese SW Face Expedition led by the seventy-year old veteran Saburo Matsukata. A massive expedition with 39 climbers, seventy-seven Sherpas and a woman, Setsuko Watanabe. Unable to improve on the previous year's reconnaissance efforts due to poor snow conditions and rockfall, the expedition switches to the standard South Col route. Teruo Matsuura and Naomi Uemura reach the summit on May 11, followed by K. Hirabayashi and Chottare Sherpa on the next day. Watanabe sets an altitude record for women by climbing to the South Col.
1970: Japanese Ski Expedition. Climbing along with the SW Face expedition, Yuichiro Miura skis from the South Col to the bottom of the Lhotse Face on May 6. Reaching speeds of 100 mph (160 kph), Miura slows himself with a parachute but loses control after hitting some rocks. He slides unconscious about 600 feet (200 meters) down the icy slopes, and fortunately stops just short of a huge crevasse.
1971: International Expedition. Norman Dyhrenfurth leads an expedition with thirty climbers from thirteen different countries including Don Whillans, Dougal Haston, Naomi Uemura, Pierre Mazeaud, and H. Bahuguna. This optimistic expedition hopes to simultaneously climb the SW Face and the West Ridge Direct, but is fraught with one- upsmanship, personality conflicts, and organizational problems. Bahuguna is caught out in a storm at Camp 3W. A rescue party climbs up to help him and he is found clipped onto the fixed ropes, missing a glove, his bare midriff exposed to the storm, and his face coated in ice. When it proves impossible to move him horizontally, they try to lower him vertically into the shelter of a crevasse, but the rope runs out before they can reach it a la Tony Kurtz on the Eiger Nordwald. Whillans utters his famous remark, "Sorry Harsh old son, you've had it." The expedition falters after his death, but Whillans and Haston push the SW Face route to 27,400 feet (8,350 meters) before lack of equipment forces an end to the expedition.
1971: Argentine Post-Monsoon Expedition. A post-monsoon expedition where J. Peterek and U. Vitale reach 26,600 feet (8,100 meters) before being defeated by high winds and an unfavorable weather forecast.
1972: European Expedition to the SW Face led by Dr. Karl Herrligkoffer and including climbers Don Whillans, Doug Scott, Hamish MacInnes, Felix Kuen, Adolf Huber, Werner Haim, and Leo Breitenberger. The expedition is plagued by personality conflicts and the withdrawal of many of the climbers, but the route is pushed as high as 27,200 feet (8,300 meters) before the attempt is abandoned.
1972: British SW Face Expedition led by Chris Bonington including climbers Mick Burke, Nick Estcourt, Dougal Haston, K. Kent, Hamish MacInnes, Tony Tighe, and Doug Scott. A post-monsoon expedition confronted with terrible weather, an elevation of 27,200 feet (8,300 meters) is reached below the Rock Band before retreating. Tragically, Tony Tighe is killed in the Icefall during the descent.
1973: Italian Expedition. Another huge expedition with sixty-four members led by Guido Monzino. Helicopters are used to shuttle equipment past the Khumbu Icefall and one hundred Sherpas are also employed. Eight climbers succeed via the South Col Route, including 16 year old Sambhu Tamang of Nepal. It is later revealed that Sambhu was actually 18. Italian Summiters were Rinaldo Carrel, Mirko Minuzzo, Fabrizio Innamorati, Virginio Epis, and Claudio Benedetti.
1973: Japanese Expedition. Led by Michio Yuasa, this large forty- eight man expedition attempted both the SW Face and South Col route. The SW Face party reaches 27,200 feet (8,300 meters) before giving up. Success is achieved on the South Col route when Hisahi Ishiguro and Yasuo Kato reach the summit, the first post-monsoon success on the mountain.
1974: Spanish Expedition attempts the South Col route. A high camp is placed on the SE Ridge, and twice teams were in position for a summit attempt, but both times are defeated by high winds. The second summit team manages to reach 27,900 feet (8,500 meters) before retreating.
1974: French West Ridge Expedition. Led by Gerald Devouassoux, a post- monsoon attempt to climb the West Ridge Direct starting from the Lho La. Because of political considerations, they don't climb the slopes leading up to the Lho La directly, but start from the base of the Khumbu Icefall; the expedition eventually reaches the West Shoulder by September 9. A major lapse in monitoring weather reports prevents them from learning that an unexpected return of warm monsoon weather is about to occur. The tragic result is that Gerald Devouassoux and five Sherpas are swept away in an immense avalanche, after which the expedition is called off.
1975: Japanese Ladies Expedition led by Mrs Eiko Hisana. On May 16 Junko Tabei of Japan became the first woman to reach the summit via the South-East Ridge.
1975: Chinese Expedition led by Shih Chan-chun, leader of the 1960 Chinese ascent, and organized by a "Party Committee" that included Wang Fu-chou, one of the 1960 summiters. A military-style expedition that uses soldiers to carry supplies to the North Col and siege tactics to progressively reposition camps higher and higher up the mountain. A final assault camp is established between the First and Second Steps at 28,500 feet (8,680 meters) by the Mushroom Rock, and the Second Step is prepared with an aluminum ladder to overcome the final vertical headwall pitch. A team of nine climbers - eightTibetan and one Chinese - reaches the summit on May 27, including the Tibetan woman, Phantog. Phantog becomes the second woman to summit Everest, losing this honor to Junko Tabei by only a few days. She is the first woman to summit from the Tibetan side.
1975: British SW Face Expedition (post-monsoon). Leader Chris Bonington and including H. MacInnes, Peter Boardman, Martin Boysen, P. Braithwaite, Micke Burke, M. Cheney, C. Clarke, Nick Estcourt, Dougal Haston, and Doug Scott. Base Camp is reached on August 22 and Advance Base is established on September 2. The expedition is blessed with good weather and smooth logistics, resulting in the steady placement of camps up the Central Gully to Camp 5 at 25,500 feet (7800 meters). The Rock Band is ascended via a gully on the left side by Estcourt and Braithwaite, who have some sporty moments when their oxygen runs out on dicey pitches at 27,000 feet (8200 meters). The upper icefield is reached via an awkward outward-sloping ramp; Haston and Scott establish Camp 6 a few days later at an elevation of 27,300 feet (8300 meters). The next day they fix 1,500 feet of rope on the upper snowfield, extending the route towards a gully leading up to the South Summit.
First Assault: Sept 24: Haston and Scott reach the South Summit at 3 PM after 11 hours of climbing. After preparing a snow cave and drinking a brew, they continue on to the summit which they reach at 6 PM. They descend to the South Summit and bivouac in the snowcave. After a freezing, oxygenless night complete with hypoxic conversations with feet, toes, and imaginary companions, the pair descend to Camp 6 safely, passing the second assault party on their way up.
Second Assault: Sept 26: Boardman and Sirdar Pertemba reach the summit and descend in a gathering storm, where they encounter Mick Burke just below the summit. They wait for him as long as possible before descending, but Burke is never seen alive again. He probably made the top but fell off of the heavily corniced summit ridge while descending in the deteriorating conditions.
1978: First Ascent without bottled oxygen: Peter Habeler (Austria) and Reinhold Messner (Italy) 5/8/78 via the South-East Ridge
1978: The first European woman and the third woman to summit Everest, Wanda Rutkiewicz, reaches the top. Wanda goes on to become known as the greatest woman climber ever.
1979: The first woman, Hannelore Schmatz, dies on Everest descending from the Summit after becoming only the 4th woman to Summit Everest.
1979: China opens up the north side (Tibet) again to western climbers.
1979: Andrej Stremfeli and Nejc Zaplotnik Summit via the true West ridge and descend via the Hornbein Couloir on 5/13/79.
1980: First Winter ascent Krzysztof Wielicki (Poland) 2/17/80
1980: Solo: Reinhold Messner (Italy) 8/20/80 via the North Col to the North Face and the Great Couloir. He climbed for three days entirely alone from his base camp at 6500 meters without the use of artificial oxygen via the North Col/North Face route.
1982: Laurie Skreslet first Canadian to reach the Summit.
1983: Lou Reichardt, Kim Momb, and Carlos Buhler reached the Summit via the East or Kangshung face on 10/8/83.
1984: Tim Macartney-Snape and Greg Mortimer reached the Summit via the North Couloir.
1984: April 20, 1984, Hristo Prodanov (Bulgaria) - Made the first ever ascent of the West Ridge Direct without oxygen (he also did it solo, which makes it the first and only solo ascent of the ridge). Also, first Bulgarian to summit Everest.
1988: Marc Batard, a Frenchman, sets the speed record on Everest on the South East ridge route from EBC to the Summit in 22.5 hours.
1988: The First American Woman, Stacey Allison reaches the Summit of Everest.
1990: First Married Couple to summit together: Andrej & Marija Stremfelj (Slovenia), 10/7/90.
1990: First Son of a summiter to Summit Everest: Peter Hillary (New Zealand) 5/10/90
1990: First father and son to summit together: Jean Noel Roche and his son Roche Bertrand aka Zebulon. They flew together on a tandem paraglider from the south Col. They landed at base camp on the 7th of October 1990. Roche Bertrand was 17 at the time and became the youngest person to ever climb Everest at the time.
1992: First case of two brothers to reach the Summit together: Alberto and Felix Inurrategui September 25, 1992.
1993: The first Nepalese woman, Pasang Lhamu Sherpa, summits Everest but dies descending from the Summit on 4/23/93.
1993: Dicky Dolma becomes the youngest woman to Summit Everest at 19 years old.
1995: The first ascent of the Northeast Ridge, completed by Kiyoshi Furuno (Japan), Shigeki Imoto (Japan), Dawa Tshering Sherpa, Pasang Sherpa, and Nima Sherpa.
1995: George Mallory, grandson of George Leigh Mallory, reaches the Summit of Everest.
1996: 15 die on Everest, the most in a single year, including the most successful guide of his time, the great climber Rob Hall.
1996: Ang Rita Sherpa (born 1947), Summits Everest for the 10th time. (1983,1984,1985,1987,1988,1990,1992,1993,1995,and 1996 all ascents without bottled oxygen.)
1996: The first ascent of the North-Northeast couloir by Peter Kuznetzov, Valeri Kohanov and Grigori Semikolenkov on 5/20/96.
1996: North Side: Fastest Ascent via the standard North Col-north ridge-north face Route: Hans Kammerlander (Italian) 5/24/96, 16 hours 45 minutes from base camp. He left BC at 6400 meters at 5pm on May 23, 1996 and was on the Summit 16 hours 45 minutes later at 9:45am the next day. He descended most of the route on skis.
1999: On May 12, 1999: Lev Sarkisov (2/12/38) became the oldest man to summit Everest. His record was later broken, but Lev is a special person. Lev, from Georgia, was 60years, 161 days young when he reached the Summit.
1999: May 6, 1999: Babu Chiri Sherpa spent 21 hours and 30 minutes on the Summit of Everest.
1999: George Mallory's body is found by and expedition lead by Eric Simonson. The mystery remains unanswered.
1999: The National Geographic Society revised the elevation of Everest to 29,035 feet (8850 meters). Nepal does not accept the revised elevation.
1999: Joby Ogwyn becomes the youngest American to Summit Everest
2000: New Speed Record Nepal Side: Babu Chiri Sherpa; from Everest base camp to the Summit via the South East ridge in 16 hours and 56 minutes on May 21st, 2000.
2000: Apa Sherpa Summits for the 11th time.
2000: Oldest woman: Anna Czerwinska (born 7/10/49) climbed Everest from Nepal side on 5/22/2000.
2000: First true Ski descent: Davo Karnicar
2000: Anna Czerwinska becomes the oldest woman to summit Everest at 50years old
2001: Roche Bertrand and his wife Claire Bernier Roche flew together on a tandem paraglider from the North side Summit of Everest. The paraglider arrived at ABC 8 minutes later...This first husband and wife to fly from the Summit together !
2001: Stefan Gatt the first to Snowboard from the Summit of Everest.
2001: Marco Siffredi on his Snowboard completed the first-ever descent of Everest on a snowboard from the Summit to ABC.
2001: At 16 Temba Tsheri Sherpa become the youngest person to Summit Everest.
2001: American Sherman Bull, at age 64, is the oldest person to summit Mount Everest.
2001: American Erik Weihenmayer becomes the first ever blind person to Summit Everest.
2001: Sherman Bull becomes the oldest man to summit Everest at 64 years old
2002: Phil and Susan Ershler reached the summit of Mt. Everest becoming the first couple to climb the Seven Summits together. Additionally, they became the First American couple to climb Mt. Everest.
2002: Tamae Watanabe (born 11/21/1938) becomes the oldest woman to Summit everest at 63 years old.
2002: Tomiyasu Ishikawa becomes the oldest man to summit everest at 65 years old
2003: Yuichiro Miura Summited Everest at 70 to become the oldest man to reach the Summit. He summited with his son. Gota Miura.
2003: American Gary Guller become the first person with only one arm to Summit Everest.
2003: George Dijmarescu Summits Everest five times from the North in FIVE YEARS!
2003: Apa Sherpa Summits Everest for a record 13th time.
2003: The Chinese Broadcast LIVE from the Summit of Everest again.
2003: Yuichiro Miura becomes the oldest man to summit Everest at 70 years old…
2003: Jess Roskelley Become the youngest American to Summit Everest
2003: Babu's Sherpa Speed ascent record is broken
2003: Three Brothers Summit Everest on the same day
2003: Ming Kipa Sherpa become the youngest woman to summit Everest at 15 years old…
2003: Jess Roskelley Become the youngest American to Summit Everest
...and more to come!